It was 1994; I can still remember how excited I was since I was finally getting chance to travel outside of Kathmandu and moreover getting chance to meet my maternal grandparents for the very first time. My mother told me that I did meet my grandparent right after my birth but that made no sense to me because of course I did not remember anything about that visit. This visit was for me the first visit with my conscious mind. My uncle Gyanendra (my mother’s youngest brother and whom we all kids loved more than other uncles because of his jokes and never ageing personality) was traveling with us. I can still remember how I felt. I felt like as if I was on the top of the world. Uncle Gyanendra never grew up. But I honestly thank god he is still the same, same up to date, a bit American perhaps but never mind.
We were traveling with the night bus (Sarlahi Express videocoach) and the trip was estimated about 10 hours from Kathmandu. This was the longest bus trip I’ve had up to that date. What could you expect more, you were travelling with Videocoach and with uncle Gyanendra. They played Raja Hindustani ( an Indian Film ). I had my eyes wide open and was so focused on the small screen of their 14 inch black and white television that not even an earthquake could distract me. My mother was already slept right next to me and I was thinking how you could even sleep when you are on Videocoach. We arrived in Mugling ( A famous junction where all the long way travel busses meet for a travel break, passengers can eat and take a bathroom break) . We ate our Bhaat, Daal and Tarkari (National food of Nepal including Rice, pulses and Vegetable). Food in Mugling was perhaps the most unhygienic food prepared by workers with zero hygienic procedures and precautions but it tasted actually better than everyday food at home.
It was perhaps 3 in the morning and I could hear my mother asking a person in front of her to close the window because it gave a strange smell outside, then my experienced traveler uncle said that we had arrived in Hariwan and the strange smell was burning fructose from Hariwan sugar Factory. In Hariwan lived one of my mother’s sisters Umadidi (didi= sister in Nepali) and we had plans to visit her sometime later that week. Up to that date I had only seen Gyanudidi, who also lived in Kathmandu. My mother has a big family. They are altogether 10 Brothers and Sisters, with everyone scattered around. Now almost everyone live in Kathmandu apart from Narendra uncle in Germany and Gyanendra uncle in Texas. I almost forgot to tell a story about a person that was just in front of my uncle. But I have to tell you first how bus windows look like in Nepal. Two people, in front and back seat on the same side have to share the same window. Theoretically both people have to agree regards closing and opening of window , otherwise there could be a heavy dispute. A person right in front of my uncle Gyanendra had a travel sickness, a fat black bloke from Tarai(South Nepal), with a big belly stuffed with digested rice from Mugling had to throw off. He opened the window and vomited but most part flew and fell right on the top of my uncle. There was a small discussion but in Nepal , it’s pretty normal.
At many places on the way I could see forest on fire. It was perhaps because of the unextinguished cigarette from wood collectors. But my uncle had his own explanation and I believed him. He said that it was Rankebhoot ( A Nepali word for Fireghosts) and not only me but my mother believed in him too. But I did a simple research few months ago and his explanations could be true though. If corpse are not buried deep enough they give off methane after some time, and the combustible nature of methane could have perhaps set the forest on fire .
We people in Nepal are very superstitious. We live every second of our life in between god and devil. We still believe in witchcraft, we still sacrifice goat, chicken and even buffalo for the fulfillment of our Bhakal(Business deal with god for the fulfillment of wishes). My mother is very superstious by the way. Whenever I felt sick, first thing that came on her mind was palmful of rice, which she touched all over my body and went outside our house and threw it away. Her explanation was that she was throwing evil force out of my body.
After traveling for about 10 hours we came to our stop at middle of nowhere. Our bus left us three infront of Fuljors jungle early at about 4,30 am and it was still pitch dark outside. Honestly speaking I was scared, we were all scared but my uncle couldn’t show his fears as he was the only official man and it couldn’t get better when my uncle told that we had to cross that jungle to come to Sagarnath, the village of my Grandparents. It was like Little Red Hoods story of crossing the jungle to come home. When I think about it now, we could have perhaps been attacked by wild animals or robbers. Anyways , we all gathered our courage and started walking. There was a small pathway in between the trees, mostly Sal (Shorea robusta), a tree found in southern Asia that is an important source of hardwood timber. And the most amazing thing about that tree was , it had a white bark and one could write his name ,stories or anything on it. I could see thousand of names on it , quotes, addresses, dates and stuffs. My uncle Gyanendra wrote his name and my name on one of the Barks. It was an amazing experience. Uncle Gyanendra always sang his way through. He sang lots of folk songs that he created spontaneously and simultaneously. His songs were most of the times funny but there had also been times when they were very rhythmic. My mother noticed that there was sand instead of soil where Sal grew. Uncle Gyanendra told that it was a scientific failure. Never understood what he meant.
After walking about forty minutes, we could finally see a road leading to the village. I could see small huts, people milking cows, getting ready to go to field to harvest their crops, it was completely a new world for me. Since we don’t get such stuffs in Kathmandu. We finally arrived in Sagarashram, the name of the home where my grandparents lived. On the entrance, an old woman was standing, she looked at me with very cruel eyes and asked what my name was. I gazed back into her with wide open innocent eyes while my saliva went back into my stomach and said gently, my name is Deep. She replied I don’t like Deeps, most of them are murderers. That’s my first introduction to Thuldidi, the helper to my grandparents. She was a thin lady, with a very cruel mouth but she was a very kind lady in her heart. I found that later on. Finally I met my grandparents for the very first time. My grandfather looked a very clean Gentleman, he had a crystal clear Daurasuruwal (traditional Nepali Dress) with Shiny leather shoes and a well fitted Nepali Hat. He called me babu (cute word for young boys), and dragged me towards him. My mother asked me to bow him. We normally consider our parents and grandparents as another symbol of Vishnu(God). My grandfather loved young kids a lot that could be felt from his voice. Although I never met him I already loved him from the very first time I saw him. My grandmother was just the opposite. Perhaps she spend all her life raising ten children of her own, she did not show much of the interest in me, which I found quite normal. She had a very strict tone on her voice, she never went to school and was house wife her entire life.
We had two cows , an aggressive buffalo and 3 goats of our own, that was actually the coolest thing in my entire life. I could watch my grandfather milking these beasts all day long. We did not have electricity at night. We lit up candles like early 18th century Europe all over our house or handmade kerosene lights (Tukibatti). I was scared at night, because we used to hear strange noises at the back of our house, it was always pitch dark with no electricity and no one had courage to go and look. My grandfather always sat on the wooden bench, placed on the corridor of our home, this time he dragged me and told me, there is nothing such as a ghost, it’s your brain. I couldn’t understand him then but he was right. He gave me a strange example. There was a Peepal Tree infront of our home and he showed me shadow of its branches reflected by full moon moving tru and fro on the ground and told me sometimes people get scared while walking in the night and perhaps get nervous breakdown ,feeling being followed by someone at night, like when you walk, movement of shadow gives a strange feeling as if you are being followed but it’s a tree branch after all and a simple reflection. It’s all your brain. He always comforted me. He had an old Radio, which ran through Batteries where he used to hear BBC late at night.
Caste system always prevailed and still prevails in most part of Nepal. ( Brahmins were/ are considered as a high caste and class of people where kami damai are/ were considered as a lower caste of people . There was a family living right infront of our home who were kami , and helped most of the time on our harvesting activities were never touched and they were not allowed to enter inside our home. I, myself as a kid found it very disturbing. I remember once entering their home and my grandmother was furious on me. She washed me with gold-water(as a sign of purity regain) for like 3 times before I could enter inside my home and thuldidi(the helper) told everyone this kid is going to bring insanity to the family. As I was very fond of kites, I used to make my own kites with old news papers, bamboo sticks and as glue I used mashed rice and flew kite at the back of our home My mother hated it, I don’t know why.
Later that week we went to meet my mother’s older sister who lived in Hariwan. There I met Sailendra Daju for the first time. He is younger son from my Aunt and a very cool dude. As a welcome treatment he cut a chicken and we had a very tasty chicken meal. They had lycee trees at the back of their home with lots of lychees. Shailendra daju climbed up the trees and we brought back some lychees to Sagarnath later that day.
The days went by so quickly and it was time for us to return to Kathmandu. We planned returning through Bayalbas(A small town west of Sagarnath), It was hot as Sahara and my cunning uncle brought me Chanachatpat( An Indian snack ) where he added extra chillies to see my face. I took like a tablespoon, and I could no longer open my mouth . My mother was furious on him but o well he was the youngest kid in the family and was always excused. With no electricity around, there was no fridge and coca cola was like a tea. Theoretically I could have been taken to hospital . Our bus did not come that evening, so we had to return back to Sagarnath again. I was kind of happy because I already missed my grandparents as they did. As we came closer to home, my heart was joyous. I could see them both from far away, alone in corridor, I couldn’t stop myself from running to meet them again.